Farmers growing a regional speciality contemplate a post-Brexit future.

In an open-fronted barn, silver-haired women in sensible shoes and pastel winter coats peruse an array of goods, from chutneys and jams to freshly-picked Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb. E. Oldroyd and Sons, the most famous producer of rhubarb in Britain, hosts regular tours of their ‘forcing’ sheds at their farm in the village of Carlton, Wakefield. Tourists continue to disembark from buses and join the melee. Some take a seat, have a cup of tea, and wait for the person known as the “High Priestess of Rhubarb” to appear.